Day 20 continued

Breakfast of toast, tea and coffee, we all climb aboard our truck for a sight-seeing day. We visit several areas with views of the caves towns. It is incredible to believe that people live in these caves up to this century. Our stop before lunch brings us to the outdoor museum. This is a valley which was once a thriving town. Some of the caves have paintings still visible on the walls.

We head back to the campsite for the afternoon, we are all very tired after our 4am start. The pool
seems to be the popular option. The water is lovely and refreshing in the heat.  Soon the time comes to get ready for our Turkish dancing night.

We are told that it is very touristy and cheesy but we’ve been promised belly-dancing so we are all very excited. The bus picks us up and we arrive at a very posh looking building. T appears to be carved into the rock like the cave houses we visited earlier. Inside it is dimly lit and there is a very good Turkish group playing. We are shown to our seats and our orders taken for dinner. The dancing starts soon enough and it isn’t cheesy at all. The costumes are very tastefully chosen and in lovely bright colours. The traditional dancing takes up most of the evening and is very entertaining. Half way through the night the belly-dancer comes out. She picks a few out to give it a go, male and female. It is a great laugh. More Turkish dancing follows and we all join in for the last dance giving the shoulder shimmy a good go. We head into the town of Goreme to finish out the night. Overall it was a great night and the food was fantastic!

Day 21

It is a slower start to the day today. Late breakfast and lounging by the pool before heading into town to a carpet shop for a Turkish carpet demonstration. We are greeted warmly by the shop keeper and his workers. They describe the difference between Turkish carpets and the different areas with their different designs. The colours and texture of the carpets are amazing, some even look completely different at different angles. Our lunch of Turkish pizza is given to us then and some have a second look. Some people buy a carpet and have them posted home.

On the way home the owner of the campsite tells us he has bought a cave and is doing it up to live in. He kindly invites us to have a look at it. It is magnificent. He has put a beautiful terrace o the roof with grapes growing on a trellace and the view form every window is amazing looking out over a community of caves dotted throughout the valley.

I have to say I was a little wary of Turkey before I got here. I had the idea that the people were standoff-ish but I couldn’t have been more wrong.  The people bent over backwards to help us in any way they could. This was just one more instant that confirmed my thoughts that the Turkish people are absolutely lovely. The rest of the evening is spent catching up on skype and blogs before dinner and then early to bed as we are leaving early in the morning.


Day 22

We leave the campsite a little heavy hearted as we know we have 4 nights bush camp ahead of us but after breakfast Cappadocia has one last treat in store for us. The wind is stronger today than the last few mornings and the hot air balloons start to appear overhead. We rush for our cameras. Almost fifty balloons pass over head before Will starts the truck to get us all moving.

It’s a long drive day which passes uneventfully, well for me anyway. We have nicknamed the truck the Tranquiliser Truck. We all climb aboard and within ten minutes 90% of us are asleep. There is only two of us who can resist its powers.

Our bush camp tonight is at an old quarry just down the road from the Samela Monastery we will visit tomorrow. It is pretty late when we stop so it is all hands on deck to pitch tents and get dinner ready. I don’t think I‘ve mentioned the food yet, it is fantastic. We haven’t had the same dinner twice yet. There is always meat, fresh veg or salad and potatoes/rice/pasta and there is always plenty. If anything I think I’m better fed here than I am at home.


Day 23

We arrive at the monastery site early. It is a 45minute hike to the monastery but before we head off we must find our truck mate who went off for two weeks to see some other places while we were in Turkey as he had seen it before. It doesn’t take too long to find him and we set off. It’s a tough climb but worth it. The monastery has beautiful paintings on the wall from three different eras of the monastery.

It is off to the Georgia border then. We arrive at it, it  is late in the evening and have little trouble getting through. That is apart from a few stunned police in the passport office when they see our visas for all the other countries and then see the truck waiting for us.

Just the other side of the border we stop to have a look at the ruins of an old Roman fortress. It is amazing, the walls are almost perfectly preserved but the buildings are all gone. You can see where they have excavated the houses, pumbing and church ruins. When we are climbing back onto the truck a small shop across the road catches my eye. I hurry across the road to everyone’s confusion but when I reappear with a football they erupt in cheers.

We camp at a rugby ground tonight. All the players are training when we arrive and show a little interest but carry on with their training when we are setting up. Brenda and I are on cook duty tonight, its lamb burgers, stir fry veg and potatoes on the menu. It goes down well and we all have a few fizzy drinks after as we’ve a late start the next morning. Two of the people have to go and sort out a visa in the morning. The night ends with a great singsong on the back of the truck.


Day 24

Before we crawl out of our tent to get breakfast, we hear it and grown. The thunder is back! It hasn’t started to rain yet so we sort ourselves out and start pulling out the bits and pieces from the truck but we soon realise that we are going to have to put up the tarp canopy so we have to give a shout out for help. When the rain starts it comes down in sheets. We are all pretty dry and our tents have been rained on at this stage s we aren’t to worried but after an hour and a half solid of rain and ground starts to flood. We end up finishing breakfast ankle deep in rain water. We were all in good spirits though.

We head off after lunch for the National Park with the dinosaur footprints. We are all really looking forward to this, its one of the big highlights of the trip but when we reach it we find that it is closed for renovations. A little disappointed we go to find a spot for camping down a little lane.

When we are all getting our tents up we hear a bell ringing not far off, but it isn’t a church bell or like any bell I’ve heard before. We soon find out when a cow appears behind our camping spot. We appear to have camped in her route home. She is soon joined by more cows. We herd them safely around the truck and the cook fire but the lead cow is nosey. She refuses to be herded on. There is a stand-off between one of the guys on the trip who we have nicknamed Rohan Man and the cow. She eventually gets fed up and heads on her way to which Brenda and I give a rendition of Cows with
Guns.

Day 25

We spend the morning in the centre of Katusai, a lovely city and our first taste of Georgian hospitality. The first thing you notice, as with most markets I’m told, is the wonderful smell of fresh herbs and spices and then there is the cackle and babble of the ladies behind the stalls. This market was filled with mainly food stall with some cloths and odds and end stalls also. One of the girls has Asian parents and is a big hit in the market; all the men want pictures with her, not in a sleazy way but friendly.

Brenda and I head off on a mission to find a post office, which turns out to be close-by. The post master is very friendly and asks us questions about our visit to Georgia and teaches us our few Georgian words, please, thank you and hello. (I won’t try to spell them here). It is our first taste of the renowned Georgian hospitality.
After a wonderful lunch of cheese pizza and roast potatoes and mushrooms (which was fantastic, a big thumbs up for Georgian food), we are on the road again and heading for Armenian border. We don’t quiet make it but we do find a fabulous camping spot. It is on the edge of a river with a big flat plane beside it. We are all delighted when we stop as it is still early so our tents will dry and we can pull out the shower tent.

We are all in dire need of a shower at this stage. We all feel a million times better after the shower. The football gets its first airing after dinner which turns into a GAA kick about with the other Irish girl on the trip. The sun sets pretty quickly behind the mountains and we settle down for a chat before bed. The stars are amazing in the clear sky with no lights around to block them out.


Day 26

The Armenian border is not a fancy as any of the other borders we have passed through before; it is a few huts together with a pole barrier that lifts. We are quite a while here waiting for the paperwork to get sorted, the officials don’t seem in any hurry. We were expecting this though as it was the same last year. We stop for lunch in a little town after the border and while sitting admiring all the old school cars and busses, a big shiny white hummer drives past with the biggest chrome alloys I’ve ever seen. One of the girls giggles and tells me I’ve the same face on me as everyone who sees our truck for the first time (shock and astonishment). She is probably right I just didn’t expect that in
Armenia.

Arriving in the capital city, Yerevan, I am expecting a slightly old fashioned city with lots of old cafes and restaurants but Yerevan could be any European capital. They have lot of designer shops, all the ladies are dressed extremely well and the men obviously look after themselves too. It Is very up to date and has lots of fantastic bars and pubs.

After a fantastic dinner, celebrating one of the girls exam results, we find a funky little bar playing very cool music with quotes from different very popular songs e.g. the Beatles and REM. We boogied the night away there.

Day 27

The day starts with a crepe for breakfast and a hunt for a new camera as mine broke in Istanbul. The blue mosque, republic square, opera house and general wandering around the city takes up most of the evening and then a lovely dinner at a traditional restaurant. The dancing fountains start after nine so we head that way after and then up the beautiful cascades for a panoramic view of the cities night life. The footpaths are buzzing with people just strolling around the city and there is a safe and friendly atmosphere. The city almost has a Parisian feel to it especially at night. There is a big police presence but they are friendly and smiling keeping the good atmosphere going, we even pass one getting a hug from the group he is talking to.

The blue mosque

We go to the dancing fountains after dinner and walk up the cascades for a panoramic view of the city at night. Each level of the cascades have different themed sculptures.The lights are spectacular from the top level and it is a lovely end to our Yerevan visit.

The dancing fountains

The cascade

A Lion sculpture made out of old tyres

Diving sculpture

Day 28

We are all a bit sorry to be leaving Yerevan so soon and the lovely hostel. The people are very
friendly and hospitable. We drive the short distance to visit the Khor Vipar. We are not far outside the city when we get our first glimpse of Mount Ararat. It looms off in the distance with its base hidden in mist and haze and its snow-capped top. It is now that I realise that Ireland has hills and not mountains. The scenery is amazing as we head into the mountainous region. We stop off at another monastery before heading for our bush-camping on the edge of Lake Sevan.

If you look in the distance you can make out the snow covered top of Mount Ararat.

It is beginning to rain as we pull up so it is out with the tarp immediately. The fire gets going and we get the food on as quickly as possible but the weather is against us. The rain begins to pour and our old friends at this stage, thunder and lightning soon follow. The rain is torrential and it knocks the tarp down twice, we are just about to give up on it as we are all soaked to the skin and there is no end in sight but on the chief’s request we try it once more. It works this time. A few rounds of the birdy dance to warm ourselves up, a tent relocation or two and dinner is soon ready. We are all delighted to crawl into our sleeping bags at the end of the evening, by which time the rain had stopped.


Day 29

We visit another monastery on the way to Tbilisi and drive through a beautiful scenic gorge called
Debed Canyon. We pass a group of cyclists in the canyon ad we all have great respect for them because even the truck is under pressure at times in the hills. We stop for a short time to fill the water tanks on the way and get a chance dry out all our tents and shoes after the wet mucky night last night.

We are all delighted to get to the hostel even though it has only been one days bush-camping. We are all looking forward to a shower and dinner. After ordering dinner we sit back to enjoy a drink when the power goes in the restaurant. It is nearly an hour before it comes back on and we are all starving, we are about the cancel our orders and get a kebab from a street vender when it comes back on. It turns out to be a pity because the food is terrible, with small portions and when the bill comes out they over charge us. It was going to happen sometime but we are disappointed it happened tonight as we have waited so long for the food and we are all starving.

Day 18
We were up early for a good start to the next few days for travelling to Cappadocia with a few stops offs on the way.  The first stop off on the way was the Pamukkale which is a water spring with high levels of Calcium Hydro Carbonate which makes for calcium deposits sitting and hardening on the rocks to make it like snow crystals made by an earthquake in the 7th century AD . It was very impressive, with an ancient city of Hierapolis with Ancient Greek and Roman influences and a huge amphitheatre that is the size of 3 blocks, it was the most intact building I have seen with the back of the stage still standing.

After Pamukkale we were back on the bus for a long drive session with a bush camp in half way to Gorome which was half way between the burren with its bare rocks standing out of the ground and the curragh with its low thorny bushes. Some people slept on the roof to watch the sun rise and fall and the stars in between.

Day 19
The next day we were on the road to the Cave Houses and the river walk. We were on the bus for our usual second sleep then we pulled into the cave houses that are literally are cut out of the rocks and three stories high at a minimum. They are amazing but unused for the past few generations but they seem to be used for storage for crops and hay and as dens for the local kids and teenagers.

The second stop of the day was at the river for lunch and a walk along the river. For lunch we went to a restaurant on the river with huts over the river with cushions on the floor and low tables. Lunch was fresh trout with rice and salad with bread. It was the most relaxed lunch yet. We spent about an hour having lunch and then wandered down the river then back on the bus to go to the underground city.
The underground city was built in 3,000BC to save the local tribe from the Egyptians and they were connected to another city 9km under the ground. It was very cramped and some of the places made us nervous as we were doubled over trying to squeeze through. On level 8 underground is the Christians tunnelled some more which were much roomier. There was one entrance and exit from the bottom levels which meant that if you met someone one the way up or down someone had to side step into the rooms (more like dug out cave inlets) to let the other person pass. We didn’t spend too long there as the thoughts of getting stuck down there gave me the chills.

From the Underground city we went to the campsite and sat chatting for a bit and then a quick swim before dinner and early to bed as we are up at 4 for Hot Air Ballooning.

Day 20
We were up bright and early in the morning before dawn and down the road to the launch site for tea and biscuits before launch and to watch the balloons being blown up. Then out and launch the balloons which had about 25 people and the pilot in the baskets. And up we went for our adventure to dawn and beyond. The pilot put on a good show with just dodging trees and hills and rocks.
After the balloon was perfectly landed on the trailer and the balloon dragged down and the air deflated, there was local Champagne as it is tradition after a balloon ride. Then back to the campsite for breakfast. 

And just for Dad

TBC...

Day 11

After a few fizzy drinks last night, we spend most of the morning lazing about. The full sized pool is wonderful and refreshing. It is heated only by the sun but is the perfect temperature; you could stay in it for hours but breakfast is calling. We’ve decided to treat ourselves with a full English breakfast at the bar. It hits the spot nicely.

After breakfast we decide it’s time to start writing a few postcards and emails and posting our last blog. The time passes nicely and we are all done by late lunchtime. It is amazing how used to getting up early you get when you don’t have work to do, we were up at 8:30 this morning!( Yes I know that doesn’t sound like us at all Mam and Dad).

After a picnic lunch on the lovely mowed grass I decided to take a walk with Sarah and Christoper, two others on the trip. If you’ve never been to rural Bulgaria it is covered in fields and fields of sunflowers. It is awesome and we’ve arrived just after they have all bloomed. Our walk takes us through the sunflower fields and to a lake nearby. The scenery is beautiful  and we could continue on to a local town but Sarah is on dinner tonight and I’d love a swim so we head back.

Diner is fantastic, the campsite has a BBQ which they kindly let us use so its BBQ pork steaks, coldslaw and potatoes, yum. Every week the campsite has a table quiz and we are all up for exercising our brains for the evening. It is great fun there are four teams two from our truck and two others. Round one: general knowledge (that shouldn’t be too bad), Round two: space (uh oh) Round three: the arts (oh no). Let’s just say the rest followed the same kind of reaction, but we all had a great night and ended up with a mascot at the end of the night. A hand knitted Rupert Bear.

Day 12

We are back on the road again heading for the Turkish border. Everyone is a bit nervous about it. Sometimes the truck gets through without a hitch and others the truck has to be emptied completely and inspected. Will, our driver, has decided to try a smaller border crossing this year in the hopes that they will be a bit easier.  Everyone has a bet in as to how long it is going to take, it ranges from an optimistic 1hr 10mins to over 24hrs.

We are greeted at the Bulgarian sides by a smiling attendant; he looks at our passports and waves us through. It is looking good so far. We reach the Turkish side and another smiling face waiting for us. We park up and he climbs up the back and ha a look at our passports and our faces. He pauses a bit when it comes to Brenda’s passport after mine but he looks at us and smiles it off. We then head to the office to pay for our visas and get them stamped. Will returns and it looks like he hasn’t had much trouble either. Next stop customs. They have a look into the lockers and then climbs up the back into our seating area where he is met by 15 smiling faces in the hopes that this will discourage any further investigation. As the customs officer climbs down the ladder, a lady rushes out the door of the office with her iphone. They all want pictures with the truck!!! It was incredible. We wave goodbye and head into Turkey 1hr 9mins 46sec after, that was good timing from Ange.

Again we are struck with fields and fields of sunflowers but as we get closer to Istanbul the buildings lose their character with more apartment blocks and concrete complexes. We turn a corner and there waiting to greet us is Istanbul, mass of skyscrapers and turrets. It is breath taking. Immediately I know we are in for a good three days. While sitting in traffic around 6pm the call to prayers start, almost in stereo, it is like nothing I’ve ever heard of before. The deep wavering voices fill the whole city.

We park the truck and make our way to the hostel. We are in a 3 bed dorm room, the bunks are packed in like sardines with just enough space for someone to walk between them but we are staying here for its location. We are just two blocks from the main tourist attractions, the Grand Bizzare, the Aya Spohia and the Blue Mosque. We all meet on the rooftop bar for our introduction Istanbul. The view is spectacular, on one side the lights of down town (the metropolitan area) and the lit up mosques of the old town on the other.

We ramble out to change currency and to get some dinner. There is a real buzz about the city and it is infectious. We nearly feel like joining in the call to prayer, nearly. With Turkish Lire in our pockets we start the hunt for dinner. Every restaurant has a handsome Turkish man outside trying to coax us into their restaurant. It’s almost a script:  “Hello beautiful ladies, where are you from? I have a beautiful table for you” and as you try to decline they ask you back tomorrow. We settle on a nice place around the corner form the hostel. Its kebabs all round and they are delicious with apple tea to finish it all off.


Day 13

The dorm room gets noisy around 9am so I get up and sorted for a big day site seeing. First stop the Bizzare. It is fantastic, when I bustle in with all the other shoppers I am struck by the size of it. Archways as far as the eye can see all lit up in a rich yellow light enticing you to explore. We don’t spend long here today, we’ve dedicated tomorrow for that.

Back in the main square, we get our first taste of Muslim culture. We walk up to a mausoleum and are asked to cover our shoulders and legs. We had noticed that our shorts and tops were getting some looks, not that they were particularly skimpy but when compared to the birkas they are a bit revealing.  So after covering up with shawls ad scarves we head into the mausoleum. The walls are decorated with beautifully decorated tiles. There is hardly a space on the wall that is left blank.

After a few more mausoleums we take a break from the heat and enjoy some watermelon in the shade. A muslim lady walks up to us and asks if she can have a picture with us. We are more than a little puzzled but agree. Next thing we are posing with two muslim ladies and a guy from the fruit stall while two men take our photo, a bit strange but they seemed nice enough, thanking us after and heading on their way.

Our next stop is the Aya Sophia, a stunning building with domed roof and turrets at each corner. This building started ut as a Catholic church and was converted to a Mosque and then back to a catholic church before being turned into a museum. It is spectacular inside. When it was converted ito a mosque the ruler at the time ordered the Christian mosaics to be removed however the person ordered to do it thought it a shame to destroy the work and plastered over them. He was a very clever person.
The mosaics have been partially uncovered revealing fantastic images surrounded in gold. The detail is incredible and can only put up pictures that don’t even do the images justice. These are the highlight of my day in Istanbul. It is well worth the entrance fee if anyone ever visits.

We are having a group dinner tonight so it’s back to the hostel for a shower, a dress and a bit of make-up. Everyone looks lovely all dressed up. The main topic of conversation for the start of the dinner is how we miss our heels.  Dinner is great again, I really like Turkish food. We finish up the night in a bar close to the hotel. Rock music is playing when we sit down and soon the barman gives us paper and a pen for requests. The music takes a bit of a girly turn for a bit but then we feel sorry for Will and start requesting the good stuff ACDC, Queen and a bit of Blues Brothers. We dance the night away and it’s half four by the time we creep back into the dorm.


Day 14

Today is our bizzare day. We are starting a little later than planned but we don’t mind we had a fantastic night last night. We walk to the bizarre the long way taking in the lovely leather and carpet shop windows. As we saunter along a test message comes in:”Hi Auntie, Your niece Eva has arrived just after midday…” There are a few tears of joy, a lot of   ”Oh my gods” and plenty of excited giggles. I’m sure the shopkeepers are wondering what is going on. We now are on a mission in the bizzare! It is our duty to spoil baby Eva rotten from now on.

We try our hand at haggling, some shop keepers are up for it and others aren’t, but all of them are fighting for our attention especially the ones selling the touristy things and the pashmina scarves. We head back to the hostel with our treasures and to pass our good news on to everyone on the truck. Daniel, now daddy, already has a photo on facebook and she is adorable and so tiny in his arms.


Day 15

Breakfast is over nice and early and head back to the truck, we are no longer known as the twins, we are now the aunties (which we love!). On the truck again and we head for Gallipoli and Anzac Cove. The route is a coastal one with fantastic views of the beach resorts and all the big ships and oil tankers whizzing into and out of Istanbul. We’ve been told that this is the main route for all the oil shipments out of the Middle East. I wouldn’t doubt it with the number of huge ships that pas us by.

Anzac cove and the surrounding area is now a commemoration site for all the soldiers who died here in a bloody battle in World War I. I won’t go into all the history but it was mainly Australian, New Zealand, and Turkish people who died here, although I know a lot of Irish were involved here also. At the cove itself, there is a beautiful commemoration with a quote from the later Turkish leader who had taken part in the battle. I can’t quote it directly but he says that the bodies buried here are no longer enemies but are part of the land and that they now rest in peace as if it was their home, which I think is really nice and very progressive for the 1930’s.

We are bush camp outside The Boomerang Bar in Gallipoli. The owner is a friend of Will and Karen. The Boomerang Bar is the epitome of a surfer’s paradise. It is right on the beach with boats right outside the door. The wind is fairly strong as we set up our tents so we try and put them close together. We are cooking tonight so as soon as the tent is up we are inside starting on dinner, macaroni and cheese :).

As we prepare dinner the music gets going and the dancing has already started by the time we serve up. Everyone is getting to pick the music and it’s a melting pot of old and new, rock and swing, pop and even a bit of trad thrown in towards the end of the night. A great night had by all.

Day 16

The ferry across the strait leaves at 9, so breakfast is a rushed affair. We arrive at the ferry port to see the ship leaving 15mins early, because it was already full. We catch the next one 30mins later and are on our way to Troy. We are all very excited. This is a big one on my list. We have an hour to potter around the ruins and see all there is to see. It turns out that when they excavated the site they actually found ruins of 9 different eras of Troy. It was very interesting.

Back on the truck again, it’s not even 11 and the heat is getting to us all, It is going to be a hot day, the only thing that keeps us going is that we are going to camp on the beach tonight. This is the first day that the driving has gotten to me. The dead heat of the day, even with the windows open we can’t seem to cool the truck. The views are still spectacular the bright blue ocean with tiled towns dotted along the cost.

At the campsite we all gladly hop down off the truck and set up camp. My first stop is the shower, I’ve learned to appreciate a shower regardless of the water pressure, but these are really nice. We are all very subdued over dinner and bed takes us off one by one. The mosquitoes have made an appearance too so no one hangs around too late or we’ll end up as dinner for them.


Day 17

Ephesus was a mythical town like troy up to about 30 odd years ago when it was discovered by the same archaeologist who discovered troy. When we pull up I’m expecting much the same as troy, some old walls in fields and a broken pottery. I couldn’t have been more wrong, as we walk in through the gate a big amphitheatre-like structure come into view on the right and lots of tall pillars on the left. We walk through the streets with the restored marble paving stones and tall ornate pillars to the beautiful street with the houses and temples of the gods. It is breath taking. They have managed to almost fully restore the façade of one of the temples, with the statues draped with cloth and the ornate arches all in cream and beige marble. I can vividly imagine the streets thronged in roman times with everyone in their togas and going about their daily lives at the market.

At the theatre we eavesdrop a little in on one of the guided tours. His major news is that Celine Dion, Elton John and Pavarotti have all performed in the theatre here and when the restoration works are complete in his words “there will be much celebrations and more celebraties”. After a bit of a giggle about this we carry on into the theatre. There is a lady chatting to a man with a big camera at the base or stage level. We don’t pay much notice to her at first but as we climb higher to take photos she makes her way higher. She is dressed very elegantly in black and cream with a matching hat but she is in high heels, (now I’m a high heel person but this is definitely not the place for them) and she is carrying an old box style suitcase with gloves and things hanging out of it. I’m thinking haw strange this is until she starts posing, with the hat on, the hat off, looking this way, looking that way. It is obviously a photo shoot, an odd place for one but very beautiful all the same.

On the way back to the campsite we stop off in the town Ephesus for a bit of a gander. It is a quiet enough little town with a castle and some old church ruins. We bus it back to the campsite before it gets any hotter. The bus temperature says 24degrees C. I don’t believe it. It feels at least 10 degrees hotter!

It’s straight to the beach when we get back where we hop our way down the hot sand to the sea. It is a little cold at first but very refreshing. The rest of the day is spent relaxing in the shade chatting and enjoying cool drinks and ice-creams. It’s early to bed tonight as tomorrow it will be a long drive day so we’ll be up bright and early.